Hot answers tagged

11

There are apparently several different methods for finding about what weight you're dealing with. All of these can have their own downsides but they're worth considering. Note that, realistically, if you can't tell whether something is "sport" or "DK" but you know it's one of the two, it's probably not going to throw you off too badly. ...


11

According to Maggie Righetti in Knitting in Plain English1, there are a couple of methods you can use to narrow down the possibilities. The Burn Test Take a small length of the yarn and hold a flame to one end of it. Take safety precautions when doing this. Don't perform this test near anything else that's flammable and be prepared for the yarn to burn or ...


10

Yarn Bowl This is the easiest suggestion I can think of. You just need a bowl or bowl like object with a hole or path for the yarn to come out. The hole is large enough for the yarn but small enough to stop the ball from moving around. The weight of the bowl is important as well since you will be pulling on it. Having it close to yourself would help that ...


9

From the image you've shown it looks like you're on the first row of knitting after casting on, and it also looks like you've used a loop (a.k.a. backwards loop) cast-on method. It's common to get an ever-increasing amount of slack on the first row when using this kind of cast-on. A loop cast-on is easy to do, but hard to do well because the tension used ...


9

What you need to do is put your yarn in a container of some sort. It should be wide enough that the yarn can roll around a bit (don't want it to rub hard against the sides) and deep enough that the yarn can't easily jump out, but other than that the sky's the limit. Containers I've used and/or heard about include: yarn bowls baskets (be careful with wicker, ...


7

Yarn weight is basically the thickness of a given yarn. There are several ways to refer to yarn weight, but the category, the number of plies, the number of wraps per inch and the gauge range (for both knitting and crocheting) are the most commonly used. The weight of your yarn will affect the size of your finished product, and the size of the needles or ...


7

Yarns with the same dye lot number were all dyed at the same time. Because dying is a chemical reaction, many different factors can make items dyed at different times turn out differently, even if the dye "recipe" was identical from one dyeing session to the next. The temperature could be different, there could be slightly more or less pigment in a teaspoon ...


7

The method I have used all my life involves two people. One holds the yarn on the wrists, moving the hands such that they assist in unwinding and keep the yarn organized, the other does the winding of the ball and pulls the yarn from the partners hands, gently as not to disturb the lot. I have used a one person version of this myself, it takes some practice ...


7

So, in the meantime, I'm trying something a bit different... It's not the neatest sewing job, but I've managed to sew the strands together, doing a basic up and down through the middle (with the strands overlapping each other) and then looping over and under each side to hold it together on the sides as well. At least this way, there's no big knot and it ...


7

In addition to being extremely insulative, wool is ideal for something like a coffee cozy because it is stable in the presence of a fairly high degree of applied heat, it is un-meltable, and it has a very high combustion point. For a practical example of wool’s ability to withstand heat, when pressing wool, the recommended iron setting is 148 °C (300 °F), ...


6

Jo-Ann's lists "Yarn Containers", essentially closed jars with a hole for the yarn to come out, that look like they might work to keep your yarn dog hair free while you work on a project. You could also make a similar container out of something like an oatmeal box.


6

Each type of fiber has unique characteristics that must be taken into account when considering substitution (which is pretty much a pattern-by-pattern process). Some examples: Machine Washability Silk and pure wool arn't machine washable, cotton and most synthetics are, linen is actually improved by being machine washed. Breathability All of the natural ...


6

A quick hack would be to roughen the bare patches up with an old toothbrush or the coarse side of a velcro strip. Try to treat only the bare patches like this and be extra careful at the edges between original and damaged cloth. I doubt that you could restore the original properties of the cloth, but that rouch treatment should make the bare patches less ...


6

As mentioned in 111's answer, a blanket stitch is not a knitting technique to create blankets. The biggest risk in your plan is time. Babies often decide they want to see the world before doctors decide it's time for their birth. You should finish the blanket at least 2 - 3 weeks before the scheduled date. If you are quick and comfortable learning knitting,...


6

Evenly spaced stitches means that the number of stitches between increases is approximately the same. Since you are increase 50 sts over 94 current stitches, and 94/50=1.88 you should put (on average) 1.88 sts between increases. That means your increases will be done in some combination of (m1,k1) and (m1,k2) repeats. There are helpful calculators available ...


6

Unlike natural fibers which can be blocked by simply shaping the item while wet, blocking acrylic requires heat. Many people try to wet-block acrylic the same way they would do wool, and they aren't happy with the results so they conclude (incorrectly) that there's no point in blocking acrylic. That's not true. There's simply very little point in wet ...


5

Superwash single is a somewhat tough one, yes. In those case, I usually start ten or so stitches before I change the yarn, I use the same technique as when doing jacquard to have the new yarn follow in the back of the work, I knit one stitch with both yarns, and knitting with the new yarn, I have the old yarn follow the stitches on the back for like ten ...


5

Something that can help on its own or even partner with the concept of the bowl is to work the yarn from the inside of the spool. This works better for skeins but what you do is reach inside the skein and pull out the small ball of yarn that is inside. That is the end of the whole roll. If you can get that out, the yarn will feed from the inside and it won'...


5

I want to say that I love the look of those yarn bowls and would love to have one, but my method is a little bit different from the suggestions. I wanted something that would allow my yarn to unspool as I worked, but that I could also transport easily. A friend made me a bag that had a super smooth (I would say it is satin) interior so the yarn could move ...


5

That sounds like a perfect use case for needle felting. Instead of using ready-made sheets of felt, use the loose fibers of rowing or batting to create the felted face right on the spot. With a bit of practise you can achieve colour effects similar to painting by layering and mixing different colours, like the blushing cheeks in your turnips. Instructions ...


5

It depends on what you're making with it. When you're dealing with seamless T-shirts, I'd start at the bottom. Cut the hem off, then go around and around cutting about an inch (2.5cm) in one continuous strip. You can put a little mark on your finger to indicate the measurement so you don't have to draw all those lines, and it won't need to be absolutely ...


5

The slack in the work between the needles will even out with the next stitch. The slack in the yarn you are using to make the new stitches should be pulled tight when you make your stitch. While your attention is on it you will find that your new stitches might look different from the one you made before. It is mostly better to knit a small piece that is ...


5

Woolen spun and worsted spun are references to the way the yarn is actually spun in the spinning process. Worsted spun yarn includes individual fibers that are facing in many directions, whereas woolen spun has all of the fibers facing in the same direction before the yarn is spun and they remain much more parallel in the final spun singles. The process of ...


5

If you want to make the pom-pom not fall apart as easily you have to pull the string tighter when making a knot. Some tips to consider: loop the string about 3 times before making the final knot use your finger to hold the string in place when making the knot try using a different (not yarn) string for the knot – a thin and strong one (so that it doesn’t ...


5

Assuming this is a commercial skein, I don't generally have issues. I am usually able to pull out the center of a skein. I would never guarantee that you can do this though. This can be manufacturer specific. There is no mandate to ensure that you can get a center pull from a skein. However, when it comes to most of the skeins of the following style: ...


5

A blanket stitch is used only for finishing the edges of a blanket, not for knitting a blanket. The basic stitches in knitting are the knit stitch and the purl stitch. Is there another name for the stitch you are calling a blanket stitch? For a beginning knitter I would suggest using only the two basic stitches, or just the knit stitch alone. It takes a bit ...


4

What Willeke says is good advice. Also: make sure you use the right size needle. Your yarn will indicate what needle size you should use. This can either be in mm, UK sizes or US sizes. My current yarn says 7-8mm needles for example. Different people have different knitting styles. I personally like knitting tight. I will prefer the larger size in the ...


4

Data point: I successfully blocked a mixed-fiber scarf by soaking in warm water! It was made of fingering weight yarn, content: 75% superwash merino / 25% nylon. For an arbitrary mixture, the safest method would definitely be to make a test swatch and see how it responds... but since I don't always swatch, the next best thing is to try blocking in order of ...


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