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7

The only beeswax product by Michael Harding I was able to find is Beeswax paste, which has a "high oil content" as it is mixed with linseed stand oil, explaining the long drying time. This product is used to mix oil paints with, to increase the volume of the paint (e.g. for impasto's) and give it a matte sheen (similar to encaustic). For varnishes, you'd ...


7

Pure beeswax is compatible with oil paint and you can use it as a top coat or "varnish" on oil paints to provide a matte finish. There are also cold wax mediums and varnishes that you can use with oil paints. They are a mixture of solvent like mineral spirits or turps, pure beeswax, and resins, the same materials you use to make mediums and varnishes for ...


7

Wax and Glass have very different rates of thermal expansion. Once the liquid wax has cooled and become solid, and you don't think the glass is at a risk of shattering, I would suggest putting the wax filled mold in the freezer. The wax should just pop loose. If it doesn't a quick rinse of the glass in warm water should release the wax. This trick also ...


7

As I recall there are grades of microcrystalline wax available in different hardnesses and melting temperatures, so do try others. I have always used a moldable base to support detailed work. Pitch mixed with Plaster of Paris is the old reliable method. This can be softened with a propane torch, the work pressed in, and upon cooling - you have firm support ...


6

Quality will be much higher with pencils. The softness of crayons dramatically reduces your precision when drawing, and they have a tendency to "skip" - I guess because of the higher amounts of wax involved. This is why crayon drawings rarely have a uniform color field, and don't blend well. You will use up your crayons much faster than pencils as well, ...


4

Cheap or expensive, crayons are softer, pencils are harder. Pencils will scratch off crayons but I see no problem with using crayons over pencils. However, cheap crayons are really not worth it. Cheap colour medium, in general, means more filler and less pigment resulting in dull colours and unsatisfactory reaults. If you can't afford decent quality ...


4

Is this to make a pattern for investment casting? If so, any wax or plastic (with no filler like Fiberglass) can be used. When I worked in the industry they made patterns of paraffin wax and used beeswax blend for attachments. As I remember, they mostly used soldering irons for shaping. The molds were burned out at 1700°F; this may be different in the ...


3

Sounds like you're looking for a mold release agent. Some examples of release agents are: Pam Cooking Spray Olive Oil applied with a spray pump Industrial Mold Release Agents such as McLube All of the above mold release agents are applied in the same manner. Starting with a clean mold, spray on a thin layer of the mold release agent into the mold, covering ...


3

I have found over the years that sometimes the cheaper crayons and pencils can be better than the expensive ones, but it takes time and experimentation to find what works well and what is truly junk. I've bought some pencils which would literally cut lighter weight papers just as good as a Xacto knife and some crayons which were so hard I wondered if they ...


2

It depends: What is your mold material ? I expect any type of glass would fuse to any ceramic mold materials I am familiar with ( mostly alumina). And many glasses get soft and bendable at 1500 F , but that is nowhere near liquid which will be 2200+ F. How hot can you get your melting furnace? High alloy stainless ( 310 = 25 Cr : 20 Ni) melts "low" and ...


1

Commercial candles normally have a higher melting temperature wax on the outer surface. This retains a pool of low temperature wax to be drawn up the wick by capillary action.


1

You did not do anything wrong, except leave a candle burning for hours unattended. Candles melt when burning, and five hours is not a short time in a regular candles life.


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