7

As far as I'm aware for BDSM purposes you want to get the melting point low enough to not burn the skin, but high enough for the recipient to have intense sensations. Paraffin and soy wax are common choices because their melting points (46 - 68 °C / 115 - 154 °F) are already lower than that of other kinds of wax. Skin irritation Stearic acid is used in many ...


4

You can use food grade silicon for casting as well as for making molds. What you need to look for is chocolate casting silicon. They are pretty expensive and there are plenty of manufacturers, but you need to follow the directions very carefully. In Europe I have had good experience with a product called schokomold If you do cast silicon in a silicon mold,...


4

According to AeroMarine Products' page on moldmaking, (emphasis from source) Generally, silicone RTV mold making rubber does not stick to anything, and nothing will stick to it. The exception is that it will stick to itself, other silicones, silica, and glass. In the past, I have used cut-down and clean milk cartons, which make an effective base for a ...


4

Sort of, within limits . HDPE and LDPE melt at temperatures that won't damage silicone designed for that temperature (some silicones that are designed for lower temperature ranges can degrade from the heat). However, HDPE and LDPE don't turn into a liquid. They're more like sticky putty or dense taffy. They don't flow nicely into fine detail; you need to ...


3

If it's still tacky after 24 hours, that's not a good sign. If it feels solid, you can try cleaning it to see what happens. At least some types of uncured silicone mix well with limonene, a solvent made from citrus peels that smells like oranges (use pure limonene, not a cleaner or other product that contains it as an ingredient). The stuff isn't cheap (...


3

There are various common solvents, like mineral spirits, that will thin silicone. However, the solvent becomes part of the volume. Once the silicone cures, the solvent will leach out and evaporate, and the casting will shrink by the volume of solvent added. This is sometimes done on purpose to make a finished item that's smaller than the mold. However, ...


3

There are still a couple of ambiguities in the description, so I'll try to cover a few variations on what you've described, including a possible alternate approach. Resin casting as the "finished" item The question describes the objective of making a small box, similar to a ring box, that will be lined internally. The scenario I'll describe in ...


3

The terminology varies from "industry" to "industry" but the concepts are the same. I watched years ago a video teaching creation of molds from fiberglass cloth. The original was called a plug, the mold was created from the plug and the part was created from the mold. In jewelry casting, the concept is the same, but the words are ...


3

I assume you use a molding silicone or a specialized prosthetic silicone for film and theater masks. The chemical compositions of those kinds of silicone are designed to not stick to anything. Construction silicone, on the other hand, is designed to stick to as many materials as possible. You could try applying construction silicone to the mask, but I haven'...


3

A hair dryer is actually a bad way to deal with bubbles. It blows too much air, too little heat, and can blow dust onto the resin. Start by minimizing bubbles There are many techniques to minimize bubbles in the first place. That would really be a good subject for a separate question, so I won't get into that tangent here. But that's the first step --...


2

Silicone works well as a mold material because virtually nothing adheres to silicone other than silicone. CA glue may not be a good choice, as it certainly will not adhere, but also may damage the surface of the mold. Your best option is to attach the wood to an outside jig or bracket of some sort, which has reference points to the mold that are not adhesive ...


1

Since you are already skilled at 3d printing, have you considered 3d printing a custom shaped box slightly larger than each specific base requires. Doing this would minimize the amount of rubber you need and give you a great place to story your rubber molds between uses. You could even print thin seams in these custom shaped boxes to allow them to be bent ...


1

I would look into making holes into the silicone face and feeding the line through. If you plan on using monofilament line a tiny hole and the line cut at an angle will already work, the line working as its own needle. Braided line will need stiffening or a needle to feed it through. Have a good double or tripple knot out of sight to secure the line.


1

Get a set of magnets (I think 4 but more may be needed) and drill holes in the wood on the side it sits against the mold and insert (glue in) the magnets. When you get ready to poor your concrete you place your wood and add the magnets on the outside of the mold, which should keep your wood in place. The bigger the piece of wood, the more magnets you need ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible