26

You can use an artist's bridge as well. It's basically a long metal ruler with either rubber feet at either end or a thin foam on the bottom. You can easily make your own out of a sturdy ruler as well. These are used by illustrators but could be useful to the fine artist as well. Here are some examples: The bridge is great for horizontal work but for ...


23

You will need to rest the point of the compass onto some other object first i.e. one that won't damage the paper. Some sort of disc A felt or rubber disc comes to mind. Something thin with enough friction so that the point and disc won't move about. You could also just take a cut of eraser and jab it on the point as well. This has a small disadvantage ...


10

In addition to the suggestions by @CreationEdge, you can get workable fixative that allows you to continue to work on drawings after spraying it. This is handy if you can't finish the piece in the whole session and want to protect it against accidental smudging, especially if it's in a sketchbook, until you can work on it again. You'll still want to apply ...


10

Before providing a way to test the oil painting is dry, it's useful to know how the drying process works and why it is important. How does oil paint dry (cure)? Oil Paint doesn’t really dry, rather it cures. The pigment is dispersed in oil (typically linseed) and generally contains a solvent (methylated/white spirit). The solvent evaporates away leaving ...


9

As long as the Painting isn’t recently painted, within 6-12 months, then there isn’t a general consensus and the answer is: It depends. The reason for the delay after the painting is finished is that it can take this long for the painting to fully 'dry'. In your case, this isn't a consideration. One of the biggest threats to your oil painting is the ...


9

There are a couple of things that will definitely work to help preserve displayed paintings: Paint quality. If you want the paint to remain vibrant over time, then you get what you pay for. Artist/professional grade paints are substantially more lightfast than student or children's paints. So, if you want it to stick around better, get the good paint. ...


9

I can think of a couple reasons why your paper curled like that: Vertically displayed paper has a tendency to curl more in my experience, especially when it has no support. The gum/glue itself may be causing or aggravating the curling. Some adhesives and coatings draw, or shrink inward, as they dry. (You see this in nail polish, too, when some thicker top ...


8

What system are you using? Airbrush or bottle spray? I have experienced a lot of frosting when applying varnish in humid environments. I have observed more frosting with spray bottles compared to airbrush (I dilute the varnish for airbrushing with Vallejo airbrush thinner). Only apply a very thin layer of varnish at a time. I have observed frosting when I ...


8

If the pieces are likely to be handled and/or displayed then using fixative sprays is probably the best option. There are two purposely manufactured types: Workable Final Workable Fixative As the name suggests, this allows you to add additional layers to your work after the spray has been used. Workable Fixative is a thin solution and it sets up a new ...


7

Light, Air, AND Temperature. After restricting the air flow like by putting the palette into a container you can put it in the fridge or even the freezer for a longer period. Some painters immerse the working palette into a recipient of water in the fridge for the best air restriction, because it is oil based the paint is not altered and is workable within ...


7

Some people use acetone to thin down their nail polish to its original consistency, but this is not recommended since it will cause it to dry out more quickly after application and can cause cracking in the finished result. There are a number of products available on the market; they are intended for extending the life of normal nail polish but I'm not ...


7

The answer is to pre-stretch the paper before painting, and leave it stretched until dry. To pre-stretch, wet the paper evenly, then tack down the corners to a drawing board with some slight tension. Using water activated tape (paper tape) tape the edges of the paper to the board with 1/4" to 3/8"s overlap on the paper smoothing out the tension as you go....


7

It looks like you're making something rather like a specimen in a jar, so why not do it the way the professionals do it: pure ethanol or isopropyl alcohol? As long as the jar is properly sealed, this should keep your alien fluid in pristine condition for centuries to come. Of course, this may be overkill. If you do a decent job of sterilising the jar ...


6

I have a subject of engineering drawing before and that is my problem also! What works for me is to use a plastic cover, the transparent one that you commonly used to cover your books. Because it is transparent you can still clearly see the pointer of your compass while adding an extra layer of protection. Before I go to school I cut many small pieces of ...


6

Once you've finished your work, if you need to protect it from being smudged, use Fixative Spray that is made for specifically this purpose. Hairspray will also work in a pinch. Only do this once you're finished though - since it will make it near impossible to add more chalk once it's done. If you need to transport unfinished work, do so in a tight folder, ...


6

The two keywords you need to look for are lightfast and archival. For US manufacturers, lightfastness is usually given as an ASTM rating (that's American Society for Testing and Materials), which is a roman numeral between I (highest lightfastness) and V (lowest). Generally, ratings of I and II are fine to use for most artworks; any lower than that should ...


6

If a flattened flower is okay for your purpose; you could adopt techniques from herbarium-sheet preparation. Keep the flowers in a fold of a diary or hardbound old notebook. Change their position every day (if flower is larger or jucier, you could use newspapers since entire papers should be changed at few to 6 hours interval at start days, latter intervals ...


6

A few comments about the problem as a whole, before I address your specific question... You are attempting to encapsulate something in a clear resin shell. That shell lacks any distinct shape, being comprised of flat planes and soft organic curves. It does not contain any sharply detailed features or surface textures. In short, the shell probably does ...


6

You will see a dulling or muting of the colors if you use fixative, which is why many pastel artists will actually “fix” in stages. Personally I like to build up muted color layers and use my highlights and whites on the top. No matter what, you should always apply multiple light layers of fixative, letting them dry in between stages. Hair spray is good in ...


6

Disclaimer: I have no first-hand experience with industrial resins (like boat resin), but I used craft resin (like crystal epoxy resin) several times. There are 2 aspects to keep in mind when choosing your resin: The properties of the resin Your own health Material properties For pouring and encasing objects in resin, you usually want a crystal clear ...


6

Hard water will work fine. However, as with all impurities, the minerals it contains will have an impact on both the purity of the colours and the texture of the paint. Colour purity Hard water contains relatively high levels of calcium and magnesium, known for causing buildups of limescale: as the carbonates are deposited, they leave an insoluble off-...


6

The greatest culprit of the fading of printed colour is UV light. This process is called photo-degradation. You can protect your images by framing them using conservation glass or UV filtering Plexiglas (which can be found at most art supply stores and framing ateliers), or coat the glass you already have with UV protective spray. This process needs to be ...


5

It's best to act quickly, and absorb the paint with either a cloth or (nearly) dry brush. You can remove most of the spilled paint that way. Then, depending on what's still visible, you might want to wet the edges of the stain, to soften the colour transition. You might also want to repaint a part of the existing painting, or if you're really creative, ...


5

If you're working with oil paint? Nothing is needed! Paints on a palette will remain workable without any further interaction for a couple of days. Longer than this, consider putting some cling film carefully over the top. If the paints have gone a bit stiff when you come back to them, simply work them carefully with a bit of white spirit or turpentine to ...


5

Besides using a "cover slip" (a piece of paper under your hand) and periodic hand washing, another simple technique that works amazingly well is to start at the upper left and work to the right and down (left handlers start in the upper right). This avoids the need to place your hand on completed parts of your drawing, and thereby prevents smudging.


5

I posted an answer to a similar question on this Exchange. "The reason [paper turns] yellow is because the paper is made from wood pulp and not cotton. Wood is made up of lignin and cellulos. The yellowing in the result of lignin, still present in the fibres of your paper, oxidizing when exposed to sunlight and air." "To save [the] paper I would recommend ...


5

Proper storage is your biggest ally in keeping paper from yellowing. Storing your artwork away from light, where it's cool and dry can drastically extend the life of even newsprint. Obviously, if you can afford acid-free paper, other archival media (e.g., don't draw with Sharpies), and storage (mylar envelopes, etc.), that would be the best. But even just ...


5

PROFESSIONAL VERSION Put on a pair of clean white cotton gloves. Mount the drawing on an acid-free sheet of museum board with archival mounting tape. Prepare a beveled matt with an interior size 1-2 cm smaller than your paper. Attach the matt to the museum board with one strip of archival tape along the top edge. Place a piece of 5 mm thick plexiglas on ...


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