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25

You can use an artist's bridge as well. It's basically a long metal ruler with either rubber feet at either end or a thin foam on the bottom. You can easily make your own out of a sturdy ruler as well. These are used by illustrators but could be useful to the fine artist as well. Here are some examples: The bridge is great for horizontal work but for ...


23

Get an erasing shield/stencil: An erasing shield is a metal stencil that can mask off the parts of your drawing you want to protect, while exposing only the area you want to erase, so you can erase with more precision.


19

Watercolor is, by its very nature, a transparent medium and so it becomes really quite difficult to manage this. However, there are a couple of things you can do to help: Draw very lightly and then use a kneaded eraser to lift the lines that you have left. The remaining lines will be much more faint than had you just drawn as light as you can. Draw on ...


17

H and B relate to the hardness or softness of the pencil's graphite. "H" stands for "hard" and "B" stands for "black" with "F" right in the middle between HB and H... though, the source of the lettering seems to be debatable according to Wikipedia - H stands for "Hardtmuth" (the surname of the owner ...


15

You can use the 3-4-5 method of creating right angles. Begin with a construction line and mark a zero point and a 3 point. Make a mark. Notice that I'm not using units of measure. You can use millimeters (preferred) or inches or anything in between. Draw from the zero point at a right angle as closely as possible. Measure from the zero point to a 4 point. ...


13

The word "proper" is in quotations for a reason: many artists share that opinion, but it's opinion. The proper way depends on you. The reason for knife sharpening of pencils is so that you're able to expose more lead at once to facilitate different shading techniques and to minimize lead wastage from standard sharpeners. However, for colored pencils, many ...


11

Other options: Eraser pencils: Imagine a pencil that is filled with eraser instead of graphite - that's an eraser pencil. Some models have a small brush on the back end for getting rid of eraser dust. Sanford Magic Rub Peel-Off Eraser Pencil: Basically the eraser equivalent of a peel-off grease pencil. The eraser core is wrapped in paper, and as you wear ...


11

The flocculent beauty of the work you show is not that the artists drew a single hair (that would never achieve the effect) the beauty came from the artists layering one drawn hair "over" another and repeating it until the desired depth was achieved. I can think of two artists on Youtube who demonstrate this layering process (with explanations for their ...


10

In addition to the suggestions by @CreationEdge, you can get workable fixative that allows you to continue to work on drawings after spraying it. This is handy if you can't finish the piece in the whole session and want to protect it against accidental smudging, especially if it's in a sketchbook, until you can work on it again. You'll still want to apply ...


10

There is a natural temptation when drawing hair to think in terms of individual hairs and equate these to pencil lines. However this tends to get in the way as there is no reasonable way to draw every individual hair even in hyper-realistic styles. Instead forget that hair is lots of individual strands and concentrate on what it looks like as a surface/...


8

Modern scanners, cameras, and digital editors pick up the non-photo blue pencil marks that earlier scanners did not. However, this color is still easily removed from the scanned image by switching to grey scale and altering the brightness and contrast. You could do this with another colored pencil pretty easily as well. The answer to your question depends ...


8

I am not an expert but here is what I gathered from my experience. Pencil have different hardness rated as follow: Harder (very light strokes) 7H -> ... -> 2H -> HB -> 2B -> ... -> 7B Softer (dark strokes) Start with a 2B or HB to "draw" (contour, shape, ...) Then add a 4B or 6B for your first shadings (I would go with 6B to widen the range of shade you ...


7

If the pieces are likely to be handled and/or displayed then using fixative sprays is probably the best option. There are two purposely manufactured types: Workable Final Workable Fixative As the name suggests, this allows you to add additional layers to your work after the spray has been used. Workable Fixative is a thin solution and it sets up a new ...


7

I don't know much about pastel pencils--so there could be something like a mechanical pastel pencil out there, and if so, hopefully someone will answer this question with information about such a pencil. But, I have a hunch that they don't exist because of the different composition of the "lead" in a pastel pencil vs. that in a mechanical pencil. I have ...


7

Spray fixative should make the drawing more matte as well as protecting it. You could also try a layer of acrylic matte medium, sprayed or brushed, but that would be a little more involved and riskier to the original work if it cannot handle the wet medium. Either way do some test pieces before trying on the finished work. I also would recommend ...


6

The heat blur effect is caused by the hot exhaust chaotically refracting the background. That is, the noisy turbulent hot air of the jet blast bends the light coming through it randomly, leading to blurry areas where the trail is. So to convincingly draw the heat blur you would need to have a background to be blurred. That being said you could represent it ...


6

Draw top and bottom of the ruler to create parallel lines. Rotate the ruler and repeat using the original lines to create a parallelogram. Draw the diagonals of the the parallelogram, thus creating a right angle at the centre. Continue drawing parallel lines with same width using the ruler and adding the diagonals. A square will present itself. .


5

I have used both charcoal and graphite for art projects. I have personally never combined the two in a single project. Charcoal Charcoal is generally much darker, bolder and messier. It's easy to fade charcoal or wipe it off the paper entirely if you make mistakes. Charcoal, due to its brittle nature is also easy to smudge or gently wipe to assist in your ...


5

These charcoal pencils are just a demonstration of the styles of pencil you might encounter. Wooden Coated Charcoal The first pencil, labeled "soft" is a softer charcoal pencil, coated in wood. Wooden charcoal pencils are generally cheaper and require a sharp blade (ex exacto knife) to sharpen them. They would not easily sharpen in a traditional pencil ...


5

Besides using a "cover slip" (a piece of paper under your hand) and periodic hand washing, another simple technique that works amazingly well is to start at the upper left and work to the right and down (left handlers start in the upper right). This avoids the need to place your hand on completed parts of your drawing, and thereby prevents smudging.


5

A colleague of mine carries her 100+ colored pencil collection in a fabric pencil roll. The pencils slot into little rectangles or elastic along a rectangle of fabric, and then the rectangle is rolled up. It ends up about the size of a water bottle, and fits easily in purse, shoulder bag, or backpack. While most of these I've seen are for colored pencils (...


5

It would be helpful to know the thickness/density of your paper. The specifics, grades, etc. are beyond your question. However, you can look at the cover of your pad or pack, refer to your supplier if you buy singly, or do some experimenting. For the sake of your question, I'll refer to the standard labeling of 90 lb, 140 lb and 300 lb. 90 being very thin (...


5

Yes, you can mix medias. But you need to preserve some of the tooth of your paper's surface to successfully transition from working with graphite to charcoal. The tooth of your paper determines how well things will catch and hold to the surface of the paper. As you pass your pencil, or charcoal, across the paper's surface little bits of the drawing tool ...


5

The carbon the pencil producers refer to is to be understood as an abbreviation for 'amorphous carbon' one of the three most common allotropes of Carbon (i.e. stablilized multiatomic structures of atomic carbon) The other well know allotropes are Graphite and Diamond. If you had a diamond pencil you would also have a pencil made of carbon - however a much ...


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