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Paper will yellow over time because of lignin in the pulped wood. Choosing an archival, acid-free fixative means that the fixative itself should not yellow over time. Unfortunately, the primary purpose of the fixative is to prevent smudging of the media that is on your paper. While it can slow down paper yellowing over time (by reducing the surface area of ...


1

A rubber eraser has the capacity to clean graphite and charcoal off of paper even when its packed into the tooth of paper. Therefore I would definitely try it out. Of course you need to take care not to dent the pieces with too much pressure; but you might find a kind of eraser that offers worthwhile cleaning performance even when used with low pressure. ...


3

I'm not familiar with what are considered "standard" metric size increments, but 44 mm is within typical precision of a 1-3/4" hole, which is a common US size and probably close enough for this purpose. You can get hole punches of this general style: Source There are also gasket punches like this: Image courtesy McMaster-Carr That picture ...


0

With a compass knife, another option is a disc of tough rubber smaller than the circle you want to cut (and presumably small enough to see your design if it's printed). I had some offcuts from work that I used for this, similar to a bike tyre (not an inner tube) in toughness and thickness, but flat. This will grip the workpiece and, if thick enough, will ...


3

If you can provide links and/or images, my answer can be adjusted, but at first thought, consider the following. For compass style cutters: The pivot of the cutter could be attached to a metal disk or to a magnet. The size and shape of the disk or magnet would be dependent on the structure of the pivot. If the pivot is a magnet, the underlying surface should ...


2

Cleaning paper once it's dirty is hard. The best solution is to avoid the problem. There are a few things you can do to minimize the accumulation of dust and dirt that will require cleaning. While making the model, keep the work area clean of paper and other dust and dirt by regularly wiping down the surface. Wear latex or similar gloves while making the ...


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On my work we had this problem with plastic sheets which we send to a customer, (plastic does not warp but its static charge changed enough to give printing problems.) The solution was to wrap the sheets in a waterproof layer of plastic in small(ish) numbers to the customer never had more than for a few days near his printer. So yes, your suggestion of ...


3

There are several ways to repair, one of the easiest would be to use book repair tape. There are several different ones available through Dick Blick. Two that I have used in the past and have worked well are Lineco Spine Repair Tape and 3M Scotch #845 Book Tape. The first is basically a cloth tape available in both black and white. The 3M tape is a thick, ...


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Make sure your hands are clean before you start, and if they pick up dirt in the process, be careful not to re-apply that dirt to the model. Start by picking up the model and tipping it over so most of the dust falls off. Gently shake and tap the model to loosen up the dust and encourage it to fall off. Then gently blow on it to further remove the loose dust....


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Begin cleaning by gently brushing the surface of the object with a soft brush to remove loose dirt and dust. If soiling is heavy, brush debris into a HEPA vacuum with cheesecloth over the nozzle to catch any bits of paper that may come loose accidentally. Just don't apply the vacuum hose directly onto the object.


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