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10

What do you need? You can make rings out of all metal that can be bent by hand and all that can be hammered into shape. Wire comes in many sizes. Unless you have a hobby involving metal wire, you will likely not stock it. But a good metal shop will have a few kinds and can often order more for you. No tools to bend: The 'easy' way is to have wire which is ...


8

2-part epoxy is my usual recommendation when it comes to mating different kinds of materials together. That is usually one of the selling points. I would caution with the use of Gorilla Glue for this. While is might be a viable choice you need to be careful of its expansion properties. If you do try to use it make sure you clamp appropriately and clean any ...


7

As much as I like the brazing answer, it's unfortunate that it won't work for your purposes. A search using the terms "drilled steel ball" resulted in many returns for of threaded and non-threaded balls of various materials. Most of the returns are for larger than 1/4" as you've requested. If you can adjust your design, there is a source of 8 mm drilled (...


7

I've glued strong magnets to various other things in an industrial context, and even fairly rigid substrates have a tendency to peal off the magnets. Hot glue is good if it sticks well to both surfaces, and it often doesn't stick very well to things like metal. It's easy to use too -- try it out on scrap materials and you'll be fine. A much better option ...


7

The corrugated certainly looks like galvanized steel where some galvanized has corroded. You need to remove the remaining zinc . Dissolving it with hydrochloridic / muriatic acid would be fast , 10% should be strong enough.Salt water, vinegar, citric acid etc, would do it but slower. Once the zinc is gone it should rust pretty fast , a little dilute salt or ...


6

As you're only working in thin aluminium, I suggest a gouge chisel. It will need sharpening fairly often (a diamond file is probably easiest) to go through easily but should do a good job. Use scrapwood clamped down securely as your anvil. I don't have a gouge, but I've tested a straight chisel successfully. My scrap aluminium is 3mm thick and a cut of ...


6

I assume a hole in the middle doesn't matter. Penny washers (also called mudguard washers, fender washers, or repair washers) are thick enough (often 1.2mm) and made of steel. The smaller sizes are usually 25mm diameter, but M8 and M10 are certainly available in 40 and 50 mm diameter. You can get them in hardware shops, but there's more choice on ebay, at ...


5

A couple of alternatives. Firstly, cheap and cheerful, use metal clothes hangers (normally given free from the dry cleaners). However, this would only offer you a limited range of gauges. Secondly, pop down to your local DIY/Garden Centre. They will have a large selection of fencing & plant growth materials. You will find all sorts of wire used for ...


5

A reverse image search suggests that the item of jewellery in that picture is plated in black gold; an alloy made of cobalt and gold. This might be ...difficult to do at home. Let's look at some alternatives. Painting This is probably not what you're looking for, but good quality matt black spray paint, sprayed over a decent metal primer coat, will be ...


5

Looks like there was already an answer here, but there are a lot of variables not considered: If you are going to send out your blades for heat-treatment, then any steel with medium carbide volume is going to be fine. These include the simple carbon steels, from 1070-1095, O1, A2 as well as stainless steels like AEB-L (Sandvik 13c26), CPM-154, S35VN. Note ...


5

Main precaution ; Do not touch it while it is hot. No vapors will come off the steel . What does A4 mean ? Your heating would be about right for forging. But for bending , try room temperature. It will bend very well unless you paid a premium for strain hardened bar. If you bend it extensively at room temperature it will harden. If you need to bend it more ,...


5

Cutting out the truck and trees would be pretty straight forward. Just find equivalent vector art in whatever format your laser likes. Online trace and format transformation websites are available to help with that step. To make the truck and trees stand up, you will need to add a square tab to the bottom of each tire and to the base of the tree's trunk. ...


5

It is indeed copper, but a cheap alloy instead of the chemically pure copper that's needed for high quality cables and circuit boards. I cannot say exactly of which different metals it consists, but it usually includes lots of copper (as the base), nickel, pewter, sometimes zink or lead and sometimes traces of other elements like phosphor, beryllium or ...


5

Stainless steel ( assuming 316 ) is more corrosion resistant than silver and would not darken in air. Silver darkens with exposure to hydrogen sulfide ; yes I know there is "no" H2S around the home. However some smell from eggs is a ppb ( part per billion = not very much) of H2S , and most of that and sewer gas H2S finds and reacts with any silver turning ...


5

I'm revising this answer after further research. Considerations Neodymium magnets are made from an alloy of neodymium and other metals. The magnets are typically plated with nickel. Pure neodymium is very reactive, oxidizing quickly in air and reacting quickly with hot water (much slower in cold water). I don't know the extent to which the neodymium ...


5

The least expensive method to rust a sheet of metal would be a light spray of salt water. Even ordinary water will rust steel if it's not particularly rust resistant. I've used 4130 chromoly steel which rusts overnight if left with moisture on the surface. Diluted chlorine bleach will cause rapid corrosion in aluminum, nearly instantaneous, but I'm not sure ...


4

A jewelers saw (also known as a piecing saw) should do the job these have very thin, fine toothed blades, almost a like a flattened wire which can handle very intricate cutting jobs. Image from micromark.com You may also want some needle files to tidy up the cut edges afterwards. You will need to drill a small hole where you want to start the cut. Then ...


4

So I asked a Tinsmith friend and he suggested the followings: Iron wire: it is cheap and has the big advantage that it can be fold at the same place several times without breaking. So you can reuse it. Chicken Wire: This solution might be particularly interesting for you as it allows to make some more complicated complicated structures and, it is also ...


4

There are a few ways to make rings but they all suggest a tool budget. I consider copper your best alternative. It is malleable and soft, so you can hammer and bend. As Willeke said, it will oxidize and leave green rings on your finger but, that can be prevented by coating with shellac, varnish, or a clear spray paint. Copper is relatively inexpensive ...


4

Start with acetone (nail polish remover) and see if that does the trick. Agitating with a Q-tip can speed things along. It all depends on what the coating is, but acetone won't hurt the copper so it's a good place to start. If it works but isn't fast, you might try soaking it for an hour or so. A more aggressive approach would be oven cleaner, but it's ...


4

What materials you use depends on the design of the lamp shade you want to make – is it a hanging ceiling lamp, a desk lamp, etc. How sturdy the frame needs to be depends on what material it is supposed to support (paper, wood, glass, plastic, etc.) For example, if you are making a paper lamp shade, then the coat hanger wire should be fine (like in those ...


4

I think you will have to age the alloy first, and clean the higher areas afterwards. For tarnishing, you can use Palmolive, or any kind of washing liquid that has sulphates in it. Another, more aggressive option, but only viable for solid, thick brass objects, is to use ammonia. The most traditional choice, however, would be to use a mixture of salt and ...


4

Those flexible sheet or strip magnets are made from magnetizable metal particles in a rubbery binder. The mixture is melted and extruded. After it's cooled down, it's magnetized. Since the leather and the magnets can both bend, the adhesive should be something that remains flexible, and bonds with both a porous material like leather, and the rubbery binder ...


4

Former goldsmith here. I used to work with gold, a lot, but not so much with steel, and I never did damascus or mokume gane. From your question I'm guessing it may be the opposite for you ? Before thinking about durability, I would question feasability. Due to their very different fusion temperatures, and different "behavior" when heated, these two metals ...


4

Maybe you could use epoxy resin instead of metal. It's not exactly cheap and you'd have to do some research as to which resin is best suited for your purpose (or suited at all), but there are tons of YouTube videos of how to design tables with epoxy. The coloration could be a problem because depending on the pigment it won't look like metal at all, even if ...


4

There is no other easily available alloy than Copper based ones that are gold colored. Brass is the most readily available that will have a gold color. There is also a very wide variety of bronzes that will let you choose a precise color. But Copper alloys are maybe not the best option have here. It is very heavy. There is a wide variety of option to get ...


4

I think the best option are sheet metal cutting shears, either manually handled ones (like heavy duty scissors), or electrical ones (power tools), although the latter one seems a little overkill for these small strips. Here is a demonstration video of both. You can get quite clean cuts with the 'scissors' variant. A variant of these, referred to as 'tin ...


4

Let me start with a disclaimer. If it was my box, I wouldn't try to restore it. There's a good chance of turning it into a mess. Right now, it shows the character of age. Trying to restore it could leave you with something very unattractive. The wood seems bare, but if it had any kind of sealer (possibly including the stain), you will end up with a ...


3

Do you mean paint won’t stick to aluminum foil? Because any two-component epoxy based paint will stick to aluminum and aluminum foil. But I think your approach is flawed from the get go. You should look into the way cosplayers build swords. They have a skeleton-like frame (sometimes a solid wood dowel) underneath the sheathing which is very often a type of ...


3

I use G-S Hypo Cement which works excellent it is somewhat expensive. E-6000 is also a good choice.


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