17

You could try using palm fronds, which can be woven to make beautiful stars and patterns: For more details about the craft of palm weaving, see this question and the links given in its answer (disclaimer: answer posted by me). They're obviously waterproof, since they come from plants which are naturally found in wet conditions. They come in long strips, ...


14

tl;dr: tea! Yup, that's right, good ole' Lipton (or whatever other type of black tea you happen to have on hand). Diluted coffee can also work, but will smell like, well, coffee-stained paper. Note that this shouldn't be used on inkjet printouts, as inkjet ink isn't waterproof. So I would suggest printing out the master map (in black and white) and heading ...


13

Plastics comes to mind. I use flexible circuit inside of keyboards to create some fun stuff. Some are made of polyester film. Plastics would come in a variety of colours so that should not be an issue. If you have the right thickness it will hold its form very well. Something like the start could be an issue as non complete creases might try to relax back to ...


12

Flocking In short, flocking is the application of thousands of miniature fibers onto a surface. I'm fairly certain this is the general approach for what you are seeing on those dolls pictures. Flocking is used to give something that velvety/soft appearance and feel. It's also very easy to do and gives your project a professional look. Flocking is used in a ...


11

Waterproof paper My company needed to travel with some spec sheets through a rain-forest area. We used waterproof laser printer paper so the sheets wouldn't be ruined by the rain. The product was called Revlar. Here is a link to their website


10

No, the gray and black light-sensitive chemicals are embedded on the film media and won't simply wash off or "turn clear" in bleach. What you are trying to do is known as Draw-on-film animation, but I've also seen it referred to as cameraless animation, clear leader animation, marker animation, scratch film, and direct animation. I enjoyed trying ...


10

Wood glues are fine for balsa. While there are stronger glues, the added strength is usually unnecessary and strong enough should be sufficient. It is hard to generalize but "white" glues, like Elmers, are just PVA glues that are advertised as craft or general glues. There are also yellow PVA glues, which Elmers also makes (and the one I generally ...


9

Absolutely. An Elmer's-style wood glue (polyvinyl acetate (PVA), generically known as carpenter's interior wood glue) is an inexpensive glue which is quite effective for holding balsa wood together. It does not take a lot of wood glue to make a good bond. In fact, too much glue will create a weak joint, so use it sparingly (how to use). If you already have ...


8

What you need is exterior masonry paint. Which specific kind of exterior masonry paint may depend on what sort of stone you're using. This page from a decorating advice site tells you which kind of paint to use in which context. It's written from the point of view of painting walls of a building, but some of it may still be useful to you. In particular, ...


8

A very simple approach are Window Colour types of paint (example). They basically produce removable decals. You can either work directly on the glass or - if bottle design and pattern permit - work comfortably on a flat surface, then transfer it to the bottle. (Or combine both and connect pre-made parts on the bottle with fresh paint.) Lines / contours ...


8

All the liquid calligraphy inks I know of are ready to use, no dilution required. Pigmented ink must be well mixed before use for the pigment to be uniformly dispersed. I find acrylic ink sometimes hard to remove from the nibs if not immediately cleaned Iron Gall ink flows well and is a pleasure to use but requires an acid free paper. The ink will look very ...


7

Something that immediately came to mind for me was one of my favorite origami papers: Foil Paper. This paper has a metal foil on one side for a great shiny appearance, and has a paper backing to make it easier to work with. The foil layer will provide a degree of water protection, but when making creases, you don't want to fold too tightly to avoid ...


7

Pure beeswax is compatible with oil paint and you can use it as a top coat or "varnish" on oil paints to provide a matte finish. There are also cold wax mediums and varnishes that you can use with oil paints. They are a mixture of solvent like mineral spirits or turps, pure beeswax, and resins, the same materials you use to make mediums and varnishes for ...


6

The two keywords you need to look for are lightfast and archival. For US manufacturers, lightfastness is usually given as an ASTM rating (that's American Society for Testing and Materials), which is a roman numeral between I (highest lightfastness) and V (lowest). Generally, ratings of I and II are fine to use for most artworks; any lower than that should ...


6

The paper you are looking for is "Bond" which has a smooth plate surface. You could also use Hard Press or Hot Press water color paper but that will be more absorbent.


6

Paperclips (even if just from behind, though from both front and behind would be sturdier; each tube would be clipped to all the tubes adjacent to it). [Edit: oh, btw, the ends of the paperclips should penetrate through the adjacent walls of the tubes for greater stability of the lower rows as the pyramid gets taller]


5

I have a plastic chair in my workshop. It is spattered with acrylic paint which is very hard to remove. I suggest you use good quality exterior grade acrylic paints. I have painted concrete ornaments with student grade acrylics and then sprayed them with automobile gel coat. It protects the paint and gives a shiny surface.


5

When using a water based paint, you will for certain cause the grain to raise and funny things that look like tear-out on the edges. To avoid this, before painting, I sand, then intentionally raise the grain with water, i.e. I paint it with water. Then I sand again to remove the raised grain and the tear-out. Finally I paint it with pigmented paint - in ...


5

Not sure if you want to hear this but this is better handled before finishing as supposed to mitigating after the fact. Either way I think you need to sand the roughness out you have first then do something to prepare the edges for finishing. In your case finishing would be painting. Preparing Plywood Edges Plywood surfaces are usually finish ready. That is ...


5

Cooking oil certainly isn't a direct substitute for linseed oil. Oils used for paint and treating wood are so called 'drying oils' this means that they naturally polymerise when exposed to air, forming a dry flexible material. All vegetable oils will do this to some extent but for something like sunflower oil it will take a very long time and you will end ...


5

Since it's a plastic surface mediums made for use with acrylic paints might be your answer. There are varnishes and glazing mediums specifically made for acrylic painting. Both mediums start out clear. By tinting the mediums you will have control over the hue and value of the covering layer. The company Golden caries a line if varnish and glazing medium ...


5

We actually have a good idea of which scroll materials last for hundreds of years, because we have scrolls that are hundreds of years old. What are they made of? Parchment We have two thousand year old scrolls written on parchment (as required for Jewish Torah scrolls). These seem to be mainly written using ordinary carbon black ink, but many (particularly ...


4

If you use transparent gloss paint to coat the stone after painting, it will look like polished you are very flexible in your choice of colour - the only constraint you have that your colour has be reconcilable with the gloss paint.


4

If you have a dual-action airbrush and a volatile pigment like alcohol inks, you can spray the rose from a distance at low pressure with a high air-to-paint ratio. The low pressure will keep the air jet from damaging the rose while the distance and high air-to-paint ration would allow the volatile ink to be almost dry by the time it hits. Experiment with ...


4

If it has a frame with glass, or you're not against putting it in such a frame, you may paint a layer of glass paint on the glass, instead of working directly on the canvas. If you ever regret your decision and you want the original art back, no harm is done.


4

Because many types of paper go under the name ‘rice paper’ (pretty much any paper that is thin and semi-transparent) it will be useful to post a close-up picture to determine what type of paper you actually have. I’ve often heard washi (or mulberry paper) being called rice paper. It is thin, semi-transparent, soft - almost cloth-like: If that's the kind ...


4

I'd recommend you head to a camping supply store (like REI or Academy ) and pick up some tent repair tape. Its usually rip-stop nylon with adhesive on the back. It will reinforce the pvc so you can add buttons etc.


4

You will need a good binder, and the cheapest waterproof binder that you can make yourself is casein. Casein is a milk-based product that you can make by warming whole milk in a saucepan and adding about 5 drops of lemon juice per liter. You don’t have to get it hot, but it mustn’t be cold. You will see clumps forming, and then remove it from the heat. ...


4

I think you will have to age the alloy first, and clean the higher areas afterwards. For tarnishing, you can use Palmolive, or any kind of washing liquid that has sulphates in it. Another, more aggressive option, but only viable for solid, thick brass objects, is to use ammonia. The most traditional choice, however, would be to use a mixture of salt and ...


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