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15

Sharpie might work, but will have some bleed on the fabric when applied that may cause the mark to spread farther than would be covered by the pins. Additionally, while you want something "permanent" right now, what happens if you lose the pins but still wish to wear the shirt? Instead of using a permanent marker, I would recommend getting a hand-sewing ...


10

Most commercial flags are made out of nylon. It's lightweight, durable, and dyes well. Specifically, the flags on many sites are made from DuPont SolarMax™, which is supposed to be nicely color safe in the sun. For inside use, you should probably be fine with a ripstop style nylon. This heavyweight DuPont SolarMax™ nylon is the most popular and versatile ...


9

To prevent fraying, use a z-stitch (zig-zag stitch) with a standard sewing machine or serge the ends of the fabric before you wash it. I've recently read a lot of guides about washing fabric before sewing and, while they often disagree about whether washing is necessary or not - generally depending on the type of fabric and the end use, the one thing they ...


9

It's called "paisley" in English. Paisley or paisley pattern is an ornamental design using the buta (Persian: بته‎) or boteh, a teardrop-shaped motif with a curved upper end. Of Persian origin,1 paisley designs became very popular in the West in the 18th and 19th centuries, following imports of post-Mughal Empire versions of the design from India, ...


8

You can buy "heat-resistant fabric" by the yard at large fabric stores in the utility fabrics section (literally called "ironing board fabric" at a popular chain) or online (several sources came up on a search), for about the same price as cotton duck or canvas, often for less. Measure the board and be sure to allow fabric to tuck under and attach to the ...


8

You have the right idea. Sewing near the edge but leaving the actual edge raw will achieve a frayed edge. Things to keep in mind: This will only work on a woven fabric, not a knit. Most importantly, not all edges will fray equally on a circle shape. Because of the nature of a woven fabric, the threads are horizontal and vertical. Certain places around the ...


8

Yes, using upholstery vinyl for bookbinding is certainly a possibility. I got a large reem of it from my grandfathers and was curious if it would work. I found my result to be satisfactory (see pictures below). The part that concerned me was the stiffness difference between my leather books and my new upholstered book. It still opens and closes fine but it ...


8

Instead of securing the fabric with the scews, I'd let the fabric secure itself on the outer edge of the wood. The less holes you poke into a fabric, the stronger it is to withstand tearing or wearing out. Instead of a simple hem, you could roll and secure the fabric (light blue) around a cord or other thick material (dark blue) to create a bulge that is ...


7

You may need to combine different materials to get all the qualities you're looking for. Here are some ideas: Canvas and denim are strong, abrasion-resistant fabrics. Another option is ripstop nylon, which is manufactured to be strong, lightweight, and resist rips and tears. The weight of your fabric will determine how strong it is. For additional strength, ...


7

This is an article that I have posted on my website for quite some time. I hope you find it helpful. Plastisol / Screen Printed Transfers These are transfers that are screen printed by an outside transfer company or by yourself with the use of screen printing equipment Durability – Very Good, often outlasts the life of the garment. Look/Feel – ...


7

Cotton! My mother made her own iron board covers out of cotton. Since it is natural you don't have to worry about it trapping steam, or melting from the heat of the iron. The heavier the fabric, the better.


7

Waxed cotton has the weight and drape. Here's a wiki link https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waxed_cotton Another benefit to waxed cotton is its ability to "heal". Once punctured leather, pleather, and vinyl will keep that hole. Also waxed cotton would be great as your mockup so you can tailor and make adjustments.


7

This isn't just for fabric, but carpet and all sorts of material on rolls. A linear metre simply means 1 metre length off the roll. It says nothing at all about the width, which is usually more than a metre for fabric, but for some things may be much less. The width should be specified elsewhere in the description, to allow you to calculate how much to buy. ...


7

The instructions you've posted call for "two 43" x 65" pieces of fabric." While there are a wide variation of fabric widths available, the standard US widths are (approximately) 45" and 60". As this piece easily fits into a length of 45" fabric (which is often actually closer to 43"), it stands to reason that the pattern is calling for the more common 45" ...


6

Since this was mass-produced clothing, they probably do have a special machine for it! You can see an example in action around 2:45 in this video "How It's Made: Jeans". They're using a machine like this one, the Singer 261u: You can see how the arm is shaped in a way that would allow you to scrunch up the leg. You could try topstitching like this on a ...


6

I'm assuming from your question that you're looking to have the cape flared out around and behind you while you are standing still, as the cape will naturally take that shape when you're in motion. My best recommendations to accomplish that appearance would be to use plastic ("boning" for corsets) or wire (strong but flexible, ie. aluminum armature wire) ...


6

Nep Generally, a nep is defined as an entanglement of fibers, that can be caused by environmental factors during growth, processing or are inherent to particular varieties. abtexintl.net hm.com indiamart.com taylorstitch.com asos.com Fleck Nep superdenim.com realmccoyslondon.com Flecked Corduroy


5

It is best to wash every fabric you use in the same method you would use to wash it after you use it. You don't want to spend time making something that shrinks to unusable proportions after cleaning it. If you never intend to wash it, don't bother. If your going to need to dry clean it dry-clean it first. If you are going to dry-clean it you should do ...


5

That's an imaginative gift! The silk screen industry has been applying paint to fabric (umbrellas included) for some time. You might be able to by a small amount from a local shop. The inks (paints) used are reducible to some degree and may be your answer, as they are both flexible and impervious to water. Your timeline is problematic though, as it does ...


5

I would hesitate to cut my fabric into smaller pieces for storage, just because I can pretty much guarantee that as soon as you cut your fabric, the universe will send you the perfect pattern for that particular piece of fabric--but the pattern will require about 1/2 yard longer than your chosen cutting length. But the reason I wanted to post an answer is ...


5

Check your local thrift and goodwill stores. You might be able to find a suitable sized duster which only needs a little repair, some leather treatment or a good cleaning to fill the bill. If not, you might find a larger sized leather (or leather-like) garment from which you can harvest enough quality leather to make your costume. If not even that, you ...


5

While a caliper would be a great tool for calculating something like this most people do not have access to one. Coupled with the fact that the level of precision it provides is lost in most crafting endevours. There are some simpler techniques that you can use to get similar results. For Fabric Ever tried to measure the thickness of paper? Perhaps in school....


5

We actually have a good idea of which scroll materials last for hundreds of years, because we have scrolls that are hundreds of years old. What are they made of? Parchment We have two thousand year old scrolls written on parchment (as required for Jewish Torah scrolls). These seem to be mainly written using ordinary carbon black ink, but many (particularly ...


5

I would suggest iron-on soluble interfacing. That should keep the fabric stiff enough that it won't stretch while sewing (and suggested to use zig-zag stitch if using really stretchy stuff like spandex). When you're done sewing, just wash it and it'll dissolve in the water.


5

You have quite a few options: PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue (a.k.a. 'school glue', 'wood glue', or 'carpenter’s glue'; a type of white glue that dries transparent. Furthermore, it's non-toxic, easy to apply, affordable, has water resistant variants (that deter mould and the like), fast-drying, and has a high holding strength. source Dilute the glue using ...


5

The question isn't well-defined, and your list of desired materials isn't clear in terms of how you envision using them. But based on the picture, I'll throw out some ideas to get you started. Perhaps you can use this to clarify your question. Recognize that anything that can't breathe will be really hot, even if it's cool outside. But a few ideas: You ...


5

I'm not really going to address your question, but the underlying problem. The fact that costumes usually look like costumes and not like "legit" outfits, is because they are produced for temporary use: their cheap materials (and often cheap manufacture) keep prices at a minimum. You can indeed improve on the fabric, but, combined with the working hours ...


5

A "costume" looks like a cheap costume because it is made with cheap, unsuitable materials using quick assembly techniques with minimal finishing; if you want it to look "legit," you have to approach it as actual apparel, not as a "costume," and you'll have to spend some money on the materials, as well as time on the construction. "Cheap" fabrics will not ...


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