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7

You could use a support armature to hold up your sculpture while it dries. I notice, in your photo, there is something that looks pink icing. That might be how that artist hid where the armature was inserted to hold up their sculpture. After the sculpture dried the armature was removed and the hole that was left behind was hidden by the icing.


6

My experience so far is that cheaper air-drying clays tend to shrink more than quality clays while drying. Many types of clay list the expected shrinkage on the package. If there is no information about shrinkage, you should expect it to be non-negligible (sometimes as much as 10%). As far as I understand it, different fibres added to the clay are to blame. ...


6

What you want to do is to make paper clay. Basically, you shred toilet paper (cheaper the better) in warm water and use a paint mixer on your drill to make it into pulp. Then add the slip and beat again. Let sump for 24 hours, then place piles of it on slabs to dry. Wedge as usual, and get to work. This material will change the way you work with clay. It ...


6

This is non-hardening plasteline, also known as plastecine. For the record, although it is labeled as children’s modeling clay, I do not trust it to be non-toxic. Having worked with exactly this product in the past, I did find it to be great when building seals in damming walls of casting molds. If you want it to be harder, you can cool it / freeze it. ...


5

The clay-sand mixture used in casting is known as green sand, foundry sand, or molding sand. Green sand is an aggregate of sand, bentonite clay, pulverized coal and water. Its principal use is in making molds for metal casting. via Wikipedia Different proportions of sand, clay, and other compounds result in slightly different properties, but green sand ...


3

This question is premised on a particular cement product that could be handled like clay but appeared to dry looking like poured concrete. It turns out that is not the case. So the "simplest" answer is that the question is based on bad assumptions. However, depending on actual requirements, the objective of the question could have full or ...


3

There are no tell-tale signs that a piece will crack, but there are definitely certain things that can lead to a piece cracking when fired. Significant variation in thickness from the thickest to thinnest areas of a piece (a ballpark for this might be if the thickest area is more than twice as thick as the thinnest area). Also, cracks can propagate from ...


3

Yes. Look out for "veins" in the clay as it is altered and manipulated from its original resting state. Veins might also look like threads or mini cracks.


3

According to this post, the black and red coloured wires are insulated with plastic: 2 coils at 33 feet wire red plastic insulation 2 coils at 33 feet wire black plastic insulation Unless you find packages with the regular 'silver' coloured wire - which according to a review here might actually be hard - I suggest using different wires.


2

China clay is or kaolin is not structurally strong enough just on its own and needs to be mixed with other materials to form a more robust material that will survive the pre-firing drying period. Assuming this is happening pre-kiln. When you say " when it is dry after some time they end up broken" it sounds like you may not be firing them soon enough or not ...


2

Sculpey is not good for this, it is also expensive. first you want a clay that stays soft, a simple bulk oil-based non-hardening clay tends to work. I prefer softness #4 but there is a lot of different preferences depending on the material being molded, I was working with fossils where cleanup came second to preserving an extremely delicate original. If your ...


2

Fine structures like the fingers of a hand are always problematic, no matter how cheap or good the clay is. The general recommendation is to build an inner structure (like a skelleton) from a more stable material and coat it in clay. For your particular case of modeling a hand I propose making fingers from rolled up aluminium foil or thick aluminium wire. ...


1

If you are making an armature , a good hardware store will have several sizes of bare copper wire . Mostly larger diameters like 12 gauge up to 000 ( guessing 0.312")


1

I don't know about different brands of clay, but cracks often occur when the clay dries too fast. If you keep your project in a mostly airtight container (I use an upsidedown bucket) it should dry slow enough to avoid much cracking. Be careful you don't keep it wet too long, because eventually clay grows mold.


1

Try using Sakura air dry clay, from Japan. It's a paper clay, if that suits your purpose. It is light weight and dries crispy, like very hard but light card. It is very strong. What I like is that you can build directly on top when dry. It doesn't crack. I build in smallish parts as, after 5 minutes of modelling, the clay enters a fragile breakable stage ...


1

I let it dry covered with a plastic bag to increase the drying time. That is probably one of the best choices. I will tell you a short story, even though it is from a totally different context. A loooong time ago, they applied a thin layer of some kind of cement-based mix on my grandmother's house - mostly for decorative purposes. That was some tedious ...


1

Spirit gum is the classic adhesive for makeup work. This time of year you can get it wherever Halloween costumes are sold. The rest of the time, amazon probably carries it. As for improving your creation's durability, I would suggest painting it with several layers of skin-friendly non-oil-based makeup paint. Allow this paint to thoroughly dry before ...


1

That material is not likely to survive very long. Normally you would make the piece out of latex or silicone, because those materials are resilient. However, I can recommend that you use rubber cement. It is generally (unless you are allergic, which you can test by putting a small dab on your skin, if it itches or get red, wash it off immediately with warm ...


1

Let's go through this step by step. For your plaster outer portion (mold), I recommend at least 8 pieces (2 pieces if it is single-use and you can break it up, in which case make sure to use a soft plaster). And you are going to put a styrofoam of balloon center in it when you go to cast. Make a 2 piece blank (master) of your shape around a solid center ...


1

It looks like you could blow up a ballon to get the shape of the interior. Then glue hex shaped objects to the surface of the ballon in the pattern of the holes. Then build a wire framework over the tops of the hex shapes to hold them in position and to support your mold's outer shell. Finally apply that outer shell as a series of glued vinyl sheets or ...


1

With the first coat you should dissolve the crushed shellac flakes in denatured alcohol with a bit more shellac than usual, and stir in an emulsion of premixed marble dust, a touch of linseed oil and fresh egg yolk until you get the right consistency for painting. If it doesn’t dry fast enough for you, consider adding a few drops of saponifying ‘japan drier’...


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