20

If you don't object to a transparent substance in the bottom of the basin, you can use acrylic casting resin, aiming for a product which specifically advertises itself as clear, as some of the available casting resins are not. Mixing the product per directions and pouring it into the basin with a bowl under the drain will allow you to place the exact amount,...


7

It looks very much like a potpourri holder. It is certainly a lovely little piece. I would recommend that you look after it carefully, and make sure that it comes to no harm. The ceramicist appears to be Edith Rimington, of Flintshire, Wales, although I have not been able to find out anything about her on the Internet. This is a piece that may appreciate in ...


6

What you want to do is to make paper clay. Basically, you shred toilet paper (cheaper the better) in warm water and use a paint mixer on your drill to make it into pulp. Then add the slip and beat again. Let sump for 24 hours, then place piles of it on slabs to dry. Wedge as usual, and get to work. This material will change the way you work with clay. It ...


5

The texture powder is very different from plaster. Plaster changes its chemical form all the way through to become a solid mass of material. It hardens while it's wet and then dries out. There are probably differences in formulation for different texture powders, but a common commercial formulation is mainly finely crushed limestone that makes up the bulk ...


5

Ceramics are made of clay and inherently clay is porous. When the clay is first fired it goes from greenware to biqueware. At this point your mug would still be porous and allow water to be absorbed. Once you glaze a piece and fire it again, then this is called glazedware. Depending on if the clay/glaze is low fire (cone 5/6) or high fire (cone 8/10) this ...


4

I would wrap a line of masking tape around the edge of the cup on the outside at the top, because this modgepodge gloss appears not to be food safe. I would also wrap at the bottom for aesthetic reasons. Although it is water soluble, do not dilute it. Put the mug to be painted upside down on stick it on a plastic cup. Use the biggest, softest synthetic ...


4

If you have a vinyl cutter, or are patient enough and talented enough to manually cut out your new brand from adhesive vinyl, there are several which are both dish-washer and food safe. There are also dish-washer safe acrylic paints but I don't know how food safe they are.


4

To me those holes look like something you would see in an incense holder. I used to have one made of terra cotta that looked like an adobe house, that I purchased on my very first trip to Santa Fe, New Mexico. I did a quick google search to see if I could find a picture of one like the one that I used to have, and instead I stumbled across the Incense Burner ...


4

Should a ceramic cup gain this much weight after this test? Good ceramic, probably not. Properly coated good ceramic, surely not. Bad ceramic with a joke of a coat? Maybe possible. Especially if the cup is on the big-ish size, and if the coat is broken in really many places (it seems that it is), and if the clay is very porous (the underside might give a ...


4

From personal experience I can say that this is a complicated project. You want all the pieces to stick together safely and in perfect position to avoid gaps that weren't there before. I once "repaired" a broken ceramic object with hot glue, but the glue hardens too quickly. I couldn't press the piece into position to avoid gaps and once I made my ...


4

There is nothing you can do, except to put in another drain. You cannot tilt that bowl in any direction that will but the hole you have at the bottom, so there is no way to avoid the standing water without having an additional outlet. Plugging the center hole will probably (as you suggest) result in something that does not look very good (unless you can ...


3

From the "usage" section of the pen website (my emphasis): Daily cleaning: avoid friction, rubbing and scrubbing by positioning the item in the dishwasher so that it is not in contact with other items of crockery or cutlery These pens are listed as decorative. You are not going to get a permanent bond that is as strong as the original ceramic finish. I ...


3

Firebrick are thermally stable for the temperature range they are specified. However , some materials may cause chemical changes in certain types of fire brick and develop lower melting phases. I am thinking of glazes dripping onto brick. The normal Nichrome elements will not do this. Also silicon carbide elements will not deteriorate the brick.


3

You could make another little flat hole on just one side of the round plate and have a little plumb to converge from there in the main central plumbing, so as the main hole will got the direct water and the new small one just the remaining. Obviously you'll need a little of inclination to get the water stream to the right direction. Just an idea.


3

They probably covered the tile in white glaze and then used a paint brush or sponge stamps to apply the blue glaze on top of the dried (but not fired) white glaze. Unfortunately the only source I could find is a German documentary without any subtitles, but starting at 28:10 it clearly shows a potter applying different patterns by sponging pigmented engobe ...


3

There are no tell-tale signs that a piece will crack, but there are definitely certain things that can lead to a piece cracking when fired. Significant variation in thickness from the thickest to thinnest areas of a piece (a ballpark for this might be if the thickest area is more than twice as thick as the thinnest area). Also, cracks can propagate from ...


3

Yes. Look out for "veins" in the clay as it is altered and manipulated from its original resting state. Veins might also look like threads or mini cracks.


3

If the kiln is rated for 1950 degrees Fahrenheit, then that's about the highest you should fire it to. The number of rings you use isn't a function of how hot it gets but more a function of how much space the inside of the kiln will have. To test the kiln, you can just plug it in and turn it on, if it heats up, it works. As BrownRedHawk stated, you should ...


3

You can use mod podge (decoupage glue) to decoupage your paper designs onto the mugs and plates - there are many tutorials for decoupage all over the he internet. Once your decoupaged mugs / plates are completely dry and cured (leave it for a few days to be sure) you can apply several thin coats of a water based polyurethane varnish (leaving plenty of time ...


3

If your pottery all have exactly the same size and shaped bottoms, you could make a shield out of cardboard or acrylic with an opening in the center which exactly matches that bottom. You could then add more cardboard or acrylic on the bottom side of that shield to build up a downward pointing ridge that fits the first quarter inch of the sides of each pot. ...


2

You're not going to be able to adhere paper to any piece that will be kiln fired. Alternate options include adding those paper clippings to fired pieces and then sealing them with some kind of varnish coating, or creating stencils or screens for screen printing your text/designs. There are places that will create custom screens if this is your desire. As ...


2

A few options: Watering down the paint (as mentioned in the comments) Acrylic paint can be thinned by adding water until brush strokes self-level. If you want to be uptight, use distilled water. Chlorine and minerals in tap water may have some effect on the paint, but it's doubtful that it'd be significant. Foam brush Foam brushes are often used to avoid ...


2

Both methods should work; polyurethane varnish seems to be a fairly standard way of sealing acrylic paint on ceramic (see this thread on potters.org for example) and Art Resin* claims that 'the heat generated from a hot mug will not damage the resin surface' and that it is suitable for use on ceramics (ArtResin FAQ, points 24 and 25). I also stumbled across ...


2

Your firebricks will already have been fired, I'm not sure anyone makes kilns with green firebricks, they would move around when firing. On the other hand if you have used fire clay , fire cement, or refractory cement to put your kiln together, then you need to ramp temperature slowly , fire clay cures with heat using the appropriate temperature and ramp ...


2

Spent five years in the hand tool industry, working with hardware, and working with glues, and adhesives. Also looking at options that are specifically for ceramic. There are a few things to keep in mind. 1) None of these options are for food-grade safe. Wasn't mentioned in the question above. 2) Not all adhesives are water-proof. 3) It might not be in this ...


2

When you pull your clay into the cylinder you want, scrape off the excess moisture/slip on the outside of the cylinder with a rib. Apply the sodium silicate solution with a paintbrush (to your turning cylinder) where you want the crackles. The heavier the application the larger the crackles (1 coat = fine crackles, etc.) Then dry the sodium silicate on the ...


1

The problem could be the Kanthal ( Fe, Cr, Al ) elements. Although they will tolerate a little higher temperature , they are "delicate" compared to the Nichrome type elements. Most consumer heat elements are Nichrome because it will tolerate more abuse ( eg. range elements). Kanthal becomes very brittle once it has been heated. Also it is weak when hot so ...


1

When the elements are connected directly to power, the only limitation is the inherent resistance of the elements. Ohm's law states that current is inversely proportional to resistance. The elements are going to be low resistance, which results in high current, and high heat, of course. Unfortunately, in your situation, the high current exceeds the capacity ...


1

Glaze additives aren't always appropriate for adding to a clay body, but sometimes they can be. I've never used silver nitrate or even heard of its use in glazes, but then I've never been a Raku artist. It sounds like a lot of fun, but I don't have the equipment or the community for doing it, so I've always stuck to plain mid-fire stoneware. If you have ...


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