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I scoured the web looking for a simple way to etch acrylic plates and glasses, the way I etch glass plates and glasses using a stencil and etching cream. Could not find anything. Then it hit me - acetone! Well, I tried applying it the same way I would etching cream and made a big mess. So what I needed was more control. Instead of straight acetone, I took ...


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You're probably looking for acrylic. Computer case manufacturers often use acrylic. For a recent example, the Thermaltake core P5 atx case uses acrylic. Also, according to this datasheet acrylic has higher optical clarity than polycarbonate and can be restored to full clarity by polishing. Also, acrylic sheets can be sourced easily, can be cut with a ...


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Yes, if you overheat it, most thermo-plastics will give off dangerous gases when heated above a certain temperature. For bending, you need somewhere between 100C - 170C (212°F - 338°F). Cast acrylic needs higher temperatures than extruded (due to the higher molecular weight), and thicker sheet need slightly higher temperature than thinner. But do ...


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Rather than paint, which might peel weirdly on you, another option is to use inkjet transparency film and print the color you want on it and then affix it the acrylic. Walmart sells, and there's likely other sources, an adhesive inkjet printable transparency film that might do the trick. A lot less fussy too...


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I would like to expand on EmRoBeau's answer a little. Acrylic cement is the common product used when trying to merge pieces of acrylic together. It is important to note that while it is commonly referred to as a glue it does not function as one. It is actually a solvent that fuses or welds the plastics components together. It is really important that your ...


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Sandblasting gives the best effect, but if you don't have the equipment or want to spend money acquiring it, and can't/don't want to just apply the stencil/masking and take it to someone else to sand blast, acetone is the way to go. I'm skipping the other mechanical methods, as they take a lot more time, patience and skill to give pleasing results (e.g. ...


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Another option would be to do two pours. This would be what I would have tried/suggested with epoxy resin. Make the first pour and let it harden. Do your best to try and remove bubbles during both pours obviously. You don't want to pour to fill half but slightly less then that so your object appear suspended in the middle of the finished piece. This will be ...


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You're likely going to run into some issues with the coatings that protect the metal layer. There are several types of glass mirrors: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirror#Types_of_glass_mirrors Typically the layer that reflects the image is silver or aluminum. They are made by taking a sheet of glass, applying a layer of metal, then protecting that metal ...


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There are specific glues manufactured for gluing clear and colored acrylic. It is thinner than water and will spread via capillary action when used appropriately. Consider when locating and purchasing such an adhesive to also purchase the needle-tipped dispensers often offered during the transaction. image courtesy of linked Amazon source. Ensure that your ...


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I did a quick search for "pearlescent acrylic sheet" and it appears there is at least one resource for this type of product. Various contours and colors are available from Acrilex and they all look quite fabulous! I didn't capture all 44 available patterns and there is at least one that resembles the panel in the photo you've linked. I found a couple other ...


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There is such a thing as acrylic cement and it can be purchased on Amazon. I'm sure it can also be found in some plumbing or home improvement stores. There is also a WikiHow on safely gluing acrylics. It seems that the main points are to have properly prepared acrylic pieces and be in a well ventilated area when using the glue.


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I would recommend a hot glue gun for gluing these very dissimilar materials. Hot glue gives you a bit of work time to get the pieces situated correctly, and it works phenomenally well for holding tight even if the two materials may not mate together perfectly. Product Search: Hot Glue Gun I have never built a snow globe from scratch, but I've repaired a ...


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As far as clear plastics are concerned the only plastics that you can go for are acrylic plastics. They come in wide variety of colors as well as thickness and can be opaque or transparent. You can easily purchase them from the market. They are available in rod, sheets, and tube. They are quite strong and even stable in sunlight. So, as per your ...


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If you put clear tape on frosted glass it becomes see-through. You could try that if it's meant to be a momentary peek-though situation. Or you could mostly frost it with white alcohol ink. Just leaving enough of an open lattice to achieve a veiled appearance. I'd think a decent way to accomplish that would be to put on some gloves, wad up a small piece ...


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For your purposes, one can expect that more weight, as low as possible, will accomplish your objective. With circuit board standoffs, you have a threaded hole at one end and a threaded stud at the other. This provides for easily attached weights in various forms. You've considered coins, which if chosen successfully, can be attractive. Think various sizes ...


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This isn't a product recommendation and a different take on the question. The spacers appear to have been constructed from commonly available hobby tubing. Many big-box hardware stores, small-box hardware stores and hobby shops will carry tubing suitable for your purpose. You can also get away with plastic tubing of sufficient rigidity and wall thickness. ...


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If the existing mirror glass is removable, do so, because the chemicals involved in stripping off the existing reflective surface can damage the frame. I wouldn't recommend scraping the back of the mirror because it might scratch the glass and such scratches may be visible in the finished product. Instead, use a liquid paint stripper to remove the ...


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If you require a circular opening and have access to a laser cutter AND the plastic is acrylic and not polycarbonate, the baubles can be cut with the laser cutter. The edges would be polished by the laser to a smooth edge. Makerspaces are the best option for finding a laser cutter. It has to be a CO2 laser rather than the lower cost, lower power diode ...


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Calsak plastics in atlanta. You can buy a 4x8ft sheet for about 25$ they have every color of the rainbow. You can also look in catalogs that sell displays to stores, you can find every type of display plastic there to cut. We had a friend who sold sunglasses she gave us a lot to cut. Here is a link http://www.calsakplastics.com Ask for broken sheets and ...


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Unless your customers require personalization of the game pieces, you might want to consider going to a mixed medium approach to your production. Prototype your products with the laser cutter using an opaque laser safe high-density foam or any other laser safe media which comes in your desired thickness. Then once your prototypes possess the desired shape/...


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To prevent warping, you can dry mount, or use high-quality double sided adhesive sheets. Cut the sheets to size beforehand (leaving, if desired, a small border of a couple of millimeters around the sheet to prevent it from sticking out from underneath), place the sheet onto the photo carefully, applying pressure from the center outwards.


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Since you are familiar with Armour Etch, I would start there. Apply a drop of Armour Etch to a scrap of your acrylic sheet and see if it reacts. If it does, you have your answer; just mask off the acrylic, cut out your lettering and apply as you would on glass. If it doesn't work, and you really need it to be etched, you could try other chemicals which ...


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At the risk of answering a nearly closed question and related to your willingness to consider creating your own, it would appear that casting is going to be the only practical solution available, unless you have a tremendous budget. I did a quick search using The Google for the terms "18 inch acrylic cylinder" and found a number of suppliers. You'd have to ...


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Use light gels (clear colored film that is used to add color to spotlights and such) layered behind clear acrylic. Not sure what glue to use to attach but spray mount would probably work. Gels come in a huge range of super saturated colors, can withstand the heat of lamps, are flexible and easy to work with and are relatively cheap.


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You can get water based glass paints. When I worked in a hobby shop we sold glass paints, and instead of sheets of glass, there were various acrylic shapes or acetate sold with them (I think the brand was Vitrail by LeFranc&Bourgeois). They come in a variety of colors and it may take some mixing to achieve the color you want seen as your LEDs are already ...


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A clear Mylar sheet could work. Clear, moisture resistant, acid free and archival. And available in the size and price range you are looking for. Here's an example available on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027A3HKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473127673&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=clear+mylar+roll&dpPl=1&dpID=31N50Emps-...


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As long as the underlying panel will not flex, yes, you can use normal acrylic paints, but a primer is required, and the recommended method is to fine sand the plexiglass to a slight roughness, then cover with primer. Acrylic polymer varnish is ideally suited to varnishing over acrylic paint, and I'm pretty certain you can use other varnishes.


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