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An Eddie Bauer down jacket has a rip in the lining which according to the label is polyester. It's a very thin fabric and it looked reminiscent of nylon but the label is quite clear that the lining is polyester.

Right now I am holding the down inside with a couple of pieces of scotch tape but would like to apply a less temporary patch. Ideas:

  • iron on patch? Maybe an iron even on low would be a bad idea?

  • duct tape?

  • paper tape?

  • some special sealant?

  • hand-sewn patch? I am good at sewing on patches but feel unsure about putting even a fine needle into this very fine fabric.

We're not there right now, but some day this jacket will need washing. So ideally the patch would hold up in the wash. (The label says it is washable with TLC - tender loving care.)


Edit: If the following is successful I'll post it as an answer. I read that

Misty Fuse is [a] fusible web product that adheres two layers of fabric together. Misty Fuse performs the same function as other fusible web products but is very sheer, light weight and does not add stiffness or bulk to the layers of fabric joined. Misty Fuse does not have a paper backing. Misty Fuse can be used with very sheer fabrics and lower temperatures.

That's what I plan to use. (I found out about a product called "Tenacious Tape" which according to some Amazon question answerers can't be relied upon to stay put during washing.)


Another update. I started to feel uncertain about using an iron at all, even on a low setting, so I called Joann Fabrics (which sells a lot of notions) and they recommended Liquid Stitch - extra strength that allows for dry cleaning. (The regular version allows for washing but not dry cleaning). So that's my new plan. Along with a very lightweight black patch with pinked edges, tucked inside the rip. They said I'll have time after applying the adhesive to position the patch just right before applying pressure for the bonding.

  • A picture would be helpful. – Ken Graham Jan 27 '18 at 11:28
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When i worked at a tailor shop, we had single side fusible backing to repair the liners of the tuxedos. It came in black or white, was placed on the inside of the tear, ironed into place and then, if it was a large tear, hand stitched.

The easiest thing to do in this situation if you don't need to stock up on this type of product, is to take the jacket to a dry cleaner or tailor shop and get a quote on the repair.

If you want to buy the interfacing, look into Pellon Shape-Flex Interfacing. Instructions are below the image. enter image description here

Quickly looking online, the example above is the closest thing I can find to what I remember using without actually touching it. It was malleable and had a knit texture to it, this example says woven, so the texture may be different. You'll want to find something that matches your repair fabric. The fabric shop may sell facing by the foot or yard. (editorial - You really do not need an entire bolt unless you're going into the repair business. A little goes a very long way.)

Instructions: You only need to cut as much as you need to hide the tear. The facing goes inside the tear, adhesive side touching the lining. Then iron with a press cloth to protect the polyester. As stated above, if it is a large area, it's good to hand stitch the tear for extra security.

For a hole, place the facing inside the hole, adhesive side against the lining, then place a small piece of matching fabric over the facing, use a press cloth when ironing. Then hand stitch if necessary.

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This may sound surprising, but check your local outdoor store for repair kits. Many of them sell special tapes for repairing rips in the fine nylon of tents, jackets, etc. These are meant to be durable, washable, and light, and often come in several colors.

If using some kind of fusible or tape product, cut the patch in a circle or oval that is clearly larger than the rip. Corners will often rub and catch on whatever is around the jacket, and will eventually come off or stress the area even more.

  • I would use two patches, one on the inside and one on the outside. This allows you to stitch (if you want to) with the original material sandwiched between the two new layers. I would (sparingly) glue the first one inside, and then stitch the outer one. – Stefan Apr 19 '19 at 4:29
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If you have a sail maker, or yachting supply store, in your area you can find repair kits for Nylon spinnakers (the big sail out front of the yacht while sailing downwind) that can handle a lot of stress. Not the cheapest but a strong solution

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I would suggest using a patch of the same type of material that you are sewing onto. use fabric glue around the edges of your patch to give it a stiffness and using the fabric glue around the edge of the hole also. ( As a footnote did you know that you can use cattails ( aquatic plant that often grows around ponds.) as a suitable type of down stuffing substitute?

  • The "hole" isn't a hole, it's just a straight line -- a simple rip (along the grain). // Are you saying the following? I should buy a fabric glue (something I've never worked with); cut a patch of similar material, and instead of making a fold on each edge, leave the raw edge exposed but prevent fraying by applying some of the fabric glue; and then glue the patch to the coat lining so as to cover the rip? Sounds doable. But are you sure I can't use an iron-on patch? That would be easier. I always have some on hand. I'm not sure if a low iron setting would make the iron-on patch stick,... – aparente001 Jan 26 '18 at 1:48

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